Have arrived and settled in Oaxaca City. Spent the day yesterday wandering the city. It does appear to be thriving. Some wonderful new museums have opened within the past few years. Most are housed in renovations of old colonial buildings, very well executed. It's apparent that the government is using what money it has to make the city stand out for its patrimony. I guess I vaguely knew this, but Oaxaca (the city and the state) are the true heart of indigenous Mexico. Five of the 8 root native languages arose here. It's a big state, from ocean to 8,000 ft elevation, lots of varied terrain. There are the equivalent of over 500 "counties" in the state, all vying for land and dominance. So, the politics are intense... not only between the urban/contemporary population and the indigenous population but among the indigenous peoples themselves.
Fueled by tourism dollars (in good measure) Oaxaca City seems to have achieved a happy equilibrium. Native populations can eek out a living with their native crafts, and the city has made a concerted effort to encourage growth of culture and tourism. There's a section of town that's blocked off to cars and it's wonderful for strolling to museums, nice restaurants (mostly serving "gourmet" indigenous dishes and smoky tasting mezcal), gardens, art galleries and lots of upscale tourist shops. FYI, mezcal is the specialty brew of Oaxaca whereas tequila is the specialty of Jalisco/Guadalajara/Chamela.
Yesterday I started the day at the local neighborhood open air market...like a mini version of the big market we visited in 1985. Had a breakfast of fresh squeezed OJ, sat down in the spic & span clean restaurant area of the market and listened to a marimba concert. Lots of kids running around and whole families enjoying time together. Flowers and color everywhere. Then I wandered over to the blocked off/no-car tourist area. Highlights included seeing a wedding in a gloriously baroque Dominican cathedral, a small baptism at a much plainer church (but with people in their finest native dress - very rare now - and a fantastic solo soprano accompanied by violin), lunch at the Institute of Graphic Design, and a great wander through the Museum of Contemporary Art of Oaxaca with wonderful paintings and an amazing old building, beautifully restored. Dinner in the same area with some Canadian folks who stay at the same pension....highlight was little tacos made with Oaxaca white cheese, smoky chile and, of all things, spearmint -- delicious.
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